Displaying all articles tagged with &ldquo#Rising Sun Archive”
This early 30′s, label-less leather jacket is another piece we are often inspired by in the Rising Sun Archive. Its patina, achieved through much wear in all kinds of weather, gives it a rough out leather look. When the original owner first got this it was likely a much smoother tanned leather. The corduroy lining stops at the arm holes for maximum mobility of the arms. Gussets are also present for the same purpose. The cuff facing is then again lined with corduroy.
Other details include rain forrest nut buttons, Kwik zipper, stunning pocket shapes, and the round collar. We also love the front and back band designs. The pattern creates a slight flare on the side panels, which have adjusters stitched in for the desired fit.
Another great piece. We hope you like it!
Digging around the Rising Sun Archive we noticed that we were knee deep in thick skin. We’re talking about vintage leather jackets, of course. Collectible leather is another one of Mike Hodis’s passions that have turned into an obsession. While the line we produce does not currently have any leather products we thought it would still be fun to share some of the great pieces in the archive.
First up is a 40′s horsehide jacket from House of Quality. As the label indicates it is made from front quarter horsehide leather. The label itself is a black woven edge label made on specialized shuttle looms. As the bandless jacket is made specifically with motorcycle riding in mind the brushed flannel lining provides a bit of warmth to the wearer. The collars are lined with a honey colored suede. The original owner obviously loved this jacket and gave it much wear to create the fantastic honeycombs pattern fading on the arms. The cuffs, while simple in design, are beautifully shaped.
The front pockets are single welted while the zipper pocket is double welted and runs diagonal on the chest for easy access. The “Vogue” branded zipper with a round pull certainly helped keep valuable knickknacks (like smokes) secure.
By looking at the front one may not expect how slim the back looks. The sun ray pleats in the back are responsible for the shape that even by today’s standards would be considered a modern fit with a gentle flare. All in all a great vintage leather jacket.
These striking scissors we employ for the cutting of pattern paper and other light use. The brass handles are comfortable and balanced for extended use. They come to us by way of the old American, high quality blades and cutting tools maker Hyde. Its founder, Issac P. Hyde, started producing in the 1870′s under the name Hyde Manufacturing.
Today Hyde Tools continues to sell superior cutting tools. Their website boasts “if it’s made of paper, cloth, plastic, leather, or rubber chances are a Hyde blade was involved in its manufacture.”
We are proud to manufacture Rising Sun’s products with a stunning relic from an American company with such a long history of craftsmanship.
Cloth Patch on Rising Sun Yukon
The Rising Sun Yukon jeans is often regarded as the most period-correct jeans we offer, whereas the Blacksimth jeans exemplifies the beauty of the single needle
Another pair of vintage shears we dearly love and heavily use is a steel blade and iron handle Heinisch. We keep it sharp for daily cutting of heavy denim and leather.
The Heinisch shears resting on its brass nut, at an angle for easy pick up and go.
Vintage Heinisch shears– ergonomical and functional
The differences between the Heinisch and the steel vintage Wilkinson shears we use intensively seem subtle but are very distinct to the user. The brass bolt nuts, due to their different lengths, keep the handles off the bench at different angles. The thumb rests are also shaped and sized slightly differently. Factor in weight, balance, and handle size and it becomes clear as to why some tailors try to stick to just one pair of shears they have become accustomed to using. As lovers of the sewing traditions of yore we collect, cherish, and–yes, use– various beautiful vintage shears in the Rising Sun Archive.
Vintage boots are perfect complements to Rising Sun jeans made with period-correct needlework. One of Mike’s favorite boots is his 30s/40s horsehide, lace-to-toe Red Wing boots. It features the original Durkee-Atwood Dupont cork soles. The needle loomed Red Wing label is in a not-too-common dark navy color. Its red heel logo plugs have minimal wear as testament to its great condition. Even though he wears them sparingly we give him a hard time whenever we see him in these beauties. The stitches per inch are tight and the double needle work feature very subtle contrast colors with a difference so imperceptible that the word contrast is too heavy-handed. All in all this is an amazing boot that some would kill for. When Mike wore them to Berlin we began to wonder if he sometimes forgets he is in a modern time when these boots cannot be replaced. They just don’t make them like they used to.
Features a dark navy needle loomed label.
Notice the original soles with cork and Red Wing logo plug.
Solid boot construction made to outlast its owners.
The next pair of boots we would like to feature has no labeling. It was possibly made by Sears, Roebuck and Co. in the 50s. The original soles have been repaired as indicated by the Cat’s Paw sole. Cat’s Paw soles were so popular for resoling back in the day that a good number of vintage work boots have them. They are so prevalent that some modern companies “reproducing” vintage boots insist on having this detail despite the fact that the original boot likely did not have a Cat’s Paw branded sole.
Another historic shoe company is Chippewa. Its history dates back to 1901, which is slightly longer than Red Wing’s. This pair of 40s/50s vintage engineer boots are made of horsehide and have the original leather soles, steel toes, and label. The heel plugs show the company’s Chippewa Chief. “Original Chippewa” is still visible on the soles.
Red Wing Shoes
Chippewa Boots
Mike told a great story today about his score at a Long Beach, CA swap meet that took place this past weekend. To tell it in his own words:
We all know the feeling of going to a swap meet or flee market and having high hopes of finding a treasure that the other person doesn’t know much about and being able to score it for a song. The day at Long Beach was that day for me. Having wandered around all afternoon and feeling depressed about not seeing anything worth buying I happened upon a gentleman who was selling his wares in a corner. I noticed the sunglasses he was sporting were quite unusual and we quickly struck up a conversation about them.
After hearing that he bought them from an estate sale and it was the only pair he had I worked up the courage to ask him if he wanted to sell them. Since he was wearing them I prepared myself for refusal but he answered with a question of his own. How much do you want to pay for them?, he asked. I paused for a few moments and shot a number that would mean a boon for me but not so low as to insult him. I was sure to keep it low enough so as not to give away its value. He replied with shock at how much I was willing to fork over. The deal was quickly made and he even had the original case.
He disappeared in his van for a few moments and than reappeared with a gorgeous leather case with authentic patina and the original markings. What I managed to score is the most beautiful and original W.W.II AO American Optical Government issued Aviator Glasses. This pair is absolutely mint with graceful lines and original green lenses. One could say it is in almost brand new condition. To me these are the ones, the ideal eye wear for the guy who wants to look period perfect.
In the end we both went home happy.
