Rising Sun

The perfect jacket to complement your raw denim is here. The Rising Sun Sack Coat is the well-appointed indigo lover’s dream. It is single-needle stitched with indigo dyed threads that fade beautifully over time with the fabric.

The Sack Coat is offered in two fabrications. The first is a chino twill with indigo warp and black weft. The sleeves are lined in light chambray made from super strong, extra long staple cotton yarns.

The coat is also offered in a double face fabric. The special double weave allows for a jacket with great drape without compromising with a light fabric. The outside features a 3×1 weave and inside shows a chambray weave.

Both models feature authentic horn buttons and have a causal fit inspired by authentic 1920’s sack coats. Labels are chainstitched for added fabric dimension. They are available in both rinsed and raw. You can see the pieces in person at the Rising Sun haberdashery in Pasadena, CA or at the upcoming Inspiration show in Santa Monica, CA.

Rising Sun will be participating in the first Inspiration show in Santa Monica, California on Feburary 12 and 13, 2010. The self titled “Kulture Recycling & Vintage Clothing World Gathering” is organized by the inspirational Rin Tanaka (My Freedamn!) and is poised to become one of the most exciting newly crafted and vintage Americana clothing events in the world. Our fellow exhibitors include brands like The Flat head, orSlow, Stevenson Overall Co., Studio D’Artisan, Feal Mor, and more. Vintage purveyors include Strongarm C&S Co., Mister Freedom, Chuck’s Vintage, and many more. You can also expect to see our friends from Heller’s Cafe as Rin recently published a book featuring them entitled, “King of Vintage No. 1: Heller’s Cafe.” There will be 600 copies available at the show.

The Barker Hanger in the Santa Monica airport provides the coolest setting for such an event. We may just need to set up our recently acquired WWII-era tent. Join us and thousands of other vintage fashion enthusiasts from around the world in celebrating our shared passion and exchanging new ideas.

Get your tickets in advance on the Inspiration website.

Event: Inspiration: The First Annual Kulture Recycling & Vintage Clothing World Gathering
Who: Rising Sun and other exhibitors join event organizer Rin Tanaka
When: Feb. 12 – 13, 2010
Where: Barker Hanger in Santa Monica Airport, 3021 Airport Avenue, Suite 203, Santa Monica, California 90405

Rising Sun will be participating at the San Francisco Man Up pop up market, which starts this Friday and runs through the weekend. Since their website describes the event so well we replicate their text here.

“Real men care about the way they look and how they spend their money. Man Up. aims to improve both. There’s nothing manly about looking like a slob. Man Up. is hosted by the Durable Goods Concern–four guys who enjoy well-crafted, fine-looking products that last. They also like to drink.”

There will be free drinks and art. It will also be a good opportunity to see Rising Sun pieces that are not normally shown outside Pasadena where we make our haberdashery home.  In addition to our well-appointed jeans (Yukon, Blacksmith, Standard, Ride’em) SF shoppers can also examine our selvage indigo canvas Outdoor Vest, hats, tees, jackets, and other goods made in our shop with our own hands with the help of some very antique and vintage sewing machines.

This here is a crate full of stuff we shipped up for the event.

Event: Man Up.
Who: Rising Sun, Unionmade, A-B Fits, Taylor Stitch, Room4 Vintage, more
When: January 29th (3-9pm), 30th (11am-7pm), and 31st (11am-6pm), 2010
Where: 1035 Market Street, San Francisco, CA

We are continuing our leather jackets blogging marathon with a very important, collectible type: A-2. The A-2 is the quintessential bomber jacket. It was Army Air Corps regulation flight jacket in 1931 as an update from its predecessors and went on to become the legendary leather jacket that today is mostly associated with American heroes in World War II. Today modern A-2, genuine issue jackets are permitted for aircrew personnel who have completed their mission qualifications. In civilian life the A-2 silhouette and styling have become popular with motorcyclists by the 50′s. Vintage A-2 are prized for their relative rarity, horse or steer leather (compared to goatskin on modern issues) and slimmer fit.

This particular piece in the Rising Sun Archive is made of horsehide tanned to a nice russet color. According to government specifications the back panel is a single piece of leather, the front is two, and the sleeves are two pieces each. The patch pocket with flaps each have snaps. The original knit cuffs and waist are also to government specs. The lining is an olive drab poplin.

An Acme Thunderer whistle is attached to the jacket via a hook and eye closure. If the wearer were to become stranded in dangerous terrain the whistle would help the search and rescue team locate him.  How do we know it was a him? “Harold W. Lindt” is written on the inside.

All in all a fantastic piece full of research and inspiration value.

This beauty here is what many motorcycle jackets aspire to be. Pony horsehide. Late 40′s / early 50′s. Worn in to a beautiful stingray tone. Maker: Los Angeles Sportstogs “Sportswear from California.” This is the real deal.

Besides the beautiful leather and romantic nostalgia it invokes the jacket is also interesting because it was likely a highway patrolman / motorcycle patrolman jacket. The dark football shape you see on the left chest is a result of something having been there for ages, protecting the leather from fading like the rest of the jacket. It was probably another piece of leather that had eyelets for securing a police badge.

Other details include original Talon #8 zipper with stirrup puller. The chunky teeth on the zipper are beautifully aged and still very sturdy. From our experience one must look far and wide to source such quality trims and hardware these days. Likewise the heavy, black sateen lining is also fantastic and in great shape considering what the piece must have been through.

Here is a late 20′s / early 30′s sportsman jacket with its steerhide still in superb condition. There is a hint of early flight jacket influence in the styling as aviation “fashion” played a role in cycling and motoring cultures. It comes with original Amazon rain forest nut buttons and the button holes are double welted. Pocket flaps utilize snaps for easy access and closure during riding. A cotton twill lines the jacket including the sleeves and does not limit arm movement because it is a light weight lining.

One of our favorite parts of the jacket is the deep arc shaped yoke on the back of the jacket. Does it remind you of a certain San Francisco brand? In fact the pocket flaps take on arc shapes too. The nice panel work and pleats in the back are also very interesting. This is another piece we proudly own.

The label shows “Herford Jacket” and there is a debate here as to whether this was of English origin. We will post updates if we find any additional details.

Here is a sneak peak at a World War II era tent Mike found at the Rose Bowl. The khaki canvas tent is large enough to walk in and we have big plans for it. As the material is woven canvas made on power shuttle looms the fabric is of course selvage. It is in great shape and has at least one maker’s stamp on it.

This early 30′s, label-less leather jacket is another piece we are often inspired by in the Rising Sun Archive. Its patina, achieved through much wear in all kinds of weather, gives it a rough out leather look. When the original owner first got this it was likely a much smoother tanned leather. The corduroy lining stops at the arm holes for maximum mobility of the arms. Gussets are also present for the same purpose. The cuff facing is then again lined with corduroy.

Other details include rain forrest nut buttons, Kwik zipper, stunning pocket shapes, and the round collar. We also love the front and back band designs. The pattern creates a slight flare on the side panels, which have adjusters stitched in for the desired fit.

Another great piece. We hope you like it!

Digging around the Rising Sun Archive we noticed that we were knee deep in thick skin. We’re talking about vintage leather jackets, of course. Collectible leather is another one of Mike Hodis’s passions that have turned into an obsession. While the line we produce does not currently have any leather products we thought it would still be fun to share some of the great pieces in the archive.

First up is a 40′s horsehide jacket from House of Quality. As the label indicates it is made from front quarter horsehide leather. The label itself is a black woven edge label made on specialized shuttle looms. As the bandless jacket is made specifically with motorcycle riding in mind the brushed flannel lining provides a bit of warmth to the wearer. The collars are lined with a honey colored suede. The original owner obviously loved this jacket and gave it much wear to create the fantastic honeycombs pattern fading on the arms. The cuffs, while simple in design, are beautifully shaped.

The front pockets are single welted while the zipper pocket is double welted and runs diagonal on the chest for easy access. The “Vogue” branded zipper with a round pull certainly helped keep valuable knickknacks (like smokes) secure.

By looking at the front one may not expect how slim the back looks. The sun ray pleats in the back are responsible for the shape that even by today’s standards would be considered a modern fit with a gentle flare. All in all a great vintage leather jacket.